Working our way South… 11/11/24

Leaving La Fleche behind us and kean to expand our knowledge of the French wine, we stopped off at Domaine Drusse which is a new grape variety and area for us, mainly focussing on ‘Bourgeuil’. David and his wife have a biological vinyard with a huge range of wines – varying in depth and flavour profile. The Vinyard is also a site for the Troglodytic caves which you can explore, although we didn’t take advantage this time. We did however purchase some wine, and also pop back into the town on Saturday having realised it was market day… any excuse to stock up on local produce

It was then a short drive to get to Villandry, where we planned to stay for a few nights to explore the Chateaux on the Loire as we haven’t been this way for a while…. also a good place to get on the bikes as I am currently sporting an injury stopping me from walking, let alone running…. very frustrating!

Villandry is a small village based around Chateau which has beautiful gardens, so although a grey and misty day, we opted to have a hobble around the gardens which were full of shape, colour and texture – amazingly beautiful seasonal veg!

With the fog and mist still hanging low, although it was Sunday and we were conscious that most things would be closed, we jumped on the bikes again and headed along the river into Tours.

A good decision, if you aren’t too bothered about shopping, as the cycle route only had a handful of families on it, running, walking and cycling… obviously too cold and grey for most. It did however, look like a good place to shop, not only hosting some of the big names, but also lots of interesting looking boutiques, restaurants and cafes – somewhere to come back and explore further another time.

Although we were expecting to see a little more of the sun the following day, we woke once again to mist and despite taking the opportunity to do the washing – forever optimists – it just didn’t lift again…we were stuck in a big, slightly damp cloud!!

We left the washing out though – to get some air if nothing else – and jumped on the bikes to head the other direction along the Loire to try and find Sleeping Beauty… a mysteriously beautiful (and a little cold) ride.

The Chateau d’Ussy is nestled in the woodland about 1.5km from the Loire, and it is fair to say that it is quite impressive, so not too much of a surprise that it was apparently what inspired Charles Perrault to write the fairy tale in 1697….although, it was the Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany that inspried Disney for his films…

Having brough our picnic lunch with us… which we were quite grateful of – being a Monday in November… I think it was more the ‘November’, than a Monday on this occassion, the little that surrounded the Chateau was closed….so not even a coffee to warm us, before we headed back to our still very damp – but clean – washing.

Wanting to escape from beneath the cloud of fog and mist, we decided to do a long haul down to Bordeaux where we had booked into Camping Village du Lac for two nights as I quite fancied another look around, having last stopped off here ten years ago in the first motorhome.

The campsite was in a great location – just 7km outside the city by a lake…although innevitably being a little warmer and located by the water we also had some uninvited guests in the form of mosquitos…

The following day, we woke to thick fog again – it was obviously following us – but we were hopeful it would burn off, and to be fair, as we cycled into Bordeaux the sun managed to come out, providing us with beautiful blue skies to explore the city. Weirdly however, as we started to head back to the campsite later in the afternoon, we found that it had been foggy and damp all day. As we were able to take advantage of the sunshine in Bordeaux we weren’t too bothered, and the added bonus was that apparently mosquitoes aren’t too keen on fog either….

Big cities out of the system for a while now, we headed back into the land of beauty and wine – Chateau du Payne – another incredible France Passion stop over in the middle of beautiful rolling hills on the Bordeaux/St Emillion borders.

We arrived at lunchtime, parked up and after having some lunch we were just about to head out for a walk when ‘grandad’ popped over and asked us if we wanted to look around the fabrication area and production process of the vinyard. We felt guilty as he was heading off for a family reunion for the weekend as they were about to welcome their first great, great grandchild…. but he insisted on taking his time to show us everything – which of course, at this time of year had just been cleaned down after the harvest.

The set up they had was impressive and they have evolved and changed as they went biodynamic. They have also been trialing the traditional Roman clay pots for certain wines over the last 5 years to see how that effects the flavour palate. An inspirational guy who had a huge passion for what he does and wanted to share as much as possible which was lovely.

We did manage to try some of the wines before he hit the road and although we only tried four – one white and three reds – it is fair to say that they were corpulant and rich in flavour….. the wine store is filling up!

We set off with blue skies in the morning to do our last little hop to arrive in Moissac, where the Aire is wedged in between The Tarn river and the Canal du Garonne… a very pretty spot.

The Aire was already fairly busy, probably part due to the long weekend (today being a national holiday), part simply because its a lovely, tranquil place. The town is about 15 minutes walk, where there is an impressive Abbey and markets on Saturday and Sunday – the Saturday one at least, was full of local food producers selling their produce direct, although we didn’t go in on Sunday.

Walking along the canal just 1.5km from the Aire is a beautiful aquaduct… obviously made even more stunning by the autumnal colours. Then venturing out on the bikes in one direction on Sunday and today the other, we found peaceful, continous canal lined with trees.

Today’s cycle took us over to Montech – where we found the ‘Water Slope’, a boat lift that raises larger boats just under 13.5m – a truly impressive invention….

Once again, we have been cooking up a couple of new, interesting and tasty recipes that we’d like to share …

Pot Barley and Mushroom Risotto
Anchovy and Artichoke Pasta

And of course, the map….

Autumnal aire…. 31/10/2024

Ok…. I gave in. As much as I think PolarSteps is a great application it lacks in ability to add detail and also, for me, usability as I started to get crossed eyed using my mobile to add everything. – just showing my age obviously!

So… just in case you missed it, we left the UK with a hop skip and a jump back into the Netherlands, where we stayed in Middleburg again for four nights to explore the area a bit further – a beautiful place that we will now keep going back to, and hopefully also explore further afield.

We then stopped off in Ghent for a few nights before spending a week back in Rotselaar with Jurgen sorting out a few bits on the motorhome before heading over to CamperPlaatz Lido (18 euro p/n) which was just outside Leopoldsburg and the Bosland National Park.

The area around Leopoldsburg is stunning, enhanced by the autumnal colours which just kept on giving. So although I had already added photos on facebook previously, I couldn’t help myself by adding a couple again for those who hadn’t seen them.

After four fantastic days of a huge amount of cycling, it was time to move on. With France suffering from torrential rain and flooding, especially in the East and Southern areas, we decided to change our plan and head West to a couple of previous haunts…. St Valery Sur Somme and Bagnoles de L’Orne.

We have been to St-Valery-sur-Somme many times – although the last time we were here was pre-Covid – so it was nice to be back as it is such a stunning location…. I think they call it an artists paradise. The photos don’t do it justice as I don’t carry my phone when I am out for a run first thing in the morning as the sun is rising. But each and every day brings a different spectrum of colours and textures, it is truly breathtaking first thing in the morning – whether it is a pink sky or the mist rising from the estuary….made even better by the lack of people!

We had decided to stay four nights this time, enabling us to explore the area a little more, as although we have been into Abbeville along the river on the bikes from St Valery sur Somme previously, we hadn’t ever been further afield.

This time, as the weather was kind, we set off on the bikes back into Abbeville and then on a lovely circular 60km+ bike ride, stopping on the promenade in Mers-le-Bain for a picnic lunch and to do some people watching, before finding a lovely little cafe to warm up and try some home made delicacies!

It was soon time to move on though, and another hop, skip and a jump (or two) and we arrived back in Bagnoles de L’Orne, where we decided to stay at Camping de la Vee (13.50 euro p/n). As mum and dad had had two different houses in Bagnoles de L’Orne, and as we previously lived here for 4 months back in 2014, it is somewhere we know well and have a soft spot for, although the last time we were here was when we signed the paperwork to sell 6 years ago.

It is fair to say that it hasn’t changed at all – well apart from finally almost completing the development of the area behind the station which was something they had been planning to do for at least 15 years – and it looks good! Just confused us when we couldn’t find the market on Saturday morning… but all was resolved quite quickly when we got closer! Still a lovely little Spa town with a very ‘French’ feel… it was lovely to catch up with some old friends and neighbours and see that it is still a beautifully tranquil spot….. and we even fell upon the monthly classic car meet.

Moving on to new places though this week, and although we were in a dilemma about which direction to go, we finally opted to head south to La Fleche, where we found a Aire (Camping Car Park 13.16 euro p/n inc. elec.)

The Aire is by a lake and nature reserve, 800m from a Le Clerc supermarket and 2.5km walk/cycle from La Fleche along the river. A lovely town with a fantastic market on a Wednesday morning and some great restaurants.

Although a little grey and drizzly, we made the most of the market, explored the town and its lovely boutique shops and patisseries, cycling further afield and naturally…. the local gastronomy.

With several options to choose from, we decided to try ‘Le Menu Gourmet’ from La Table de Laurene – which was exceptionally good…. the show piece being the baked alaska!

We have also been cooking alot of new recipes recently – a few of which that we would highly recommend for ease and flavour are as follows:-
Diversity Dhal
One Pot Dhal
Homemade Chocolate Nut Spread ‘nutella’
Chickpea Pancakes
Smokey Lentils Aubergine, Cauliflower
Curried Barley Porridge
Almond, Pecan and Chocolate Chip Cookies

And of course the map… just so you can see roughly where we have been!